Food Tour > Mediterranean Connection

Naturally, as the name Acadiana indicates, the cultural identity of this region has been shaped predominantly by the influence of Acadian settlers who arrived here in the late 18th century. But it's important to bear in mind that they were not the only immigrants who've contributed to our local character, especially in Lafayette. One of the more interesting and unexpected influences at work in Acadiana comes from the Eastern Mediterranean through a variety of peoples collectively (and often imprecisely) grouped together under the heading of "Lebanese."

Often overshadowed by more prominent ethnic groups, the influence of these Middle Eastern immigrants emerges through longstanding family names like Saloom and Haik; among local merchants like Lafayette's once-great department store, Abdallas; even in major street names, like Kaliste Saloom. And, of course, a conspicuous reminder of Acadiana's Mediterranean Connection is a healthy abundance of Lebanese and Greek restaurants in the area.

The story of the Lebanese in Louisiana is complicated and often obscure because the first immigrants did not arrive together in a large historic wave, the way the Acadians did long ago or, more recently, the Vietnamese. These first Middle Easterners to arrive were not driven from their homes en masse by war or natural disaster; rather, they wandered here as individuals or families seeking better economic opportunities.

No one is sure exactly how or when the first Lebanese found themselves in Louisiana. One possibility is through the traveling exhibitions from the Ottoman Empire, sent to the Cotton Centennial Exposition in New Orleans in 1884-1885. However they came, news of their success eventually circulated back in what is now the modern state of Lebanon and its neighbors. Stories of family and friends who'd made a new life in Louisiana were remembered by those left behind to face increasing tensions in their homeland. At the turn of the century, the silk industry was in decline in the Middle East and the Ottoman Empire's regime was becoming increasingly repressive, driving some to follow their countrymen across the Atlantic. Later, the establishment of the state of Israel put pressure on Palestinian peoples to find new homes once again. And major waves of emigration resulted from the Arab-Israeli wars that followed in 1948 and 1967. Through the years, many of those who departed from the Eastern Mediterranean came to settle in South Louisiana, and be recognized generally as Lebanese.

Lafayette proved to be a pretty hospitable place for many of them. Before World War II, most of the Arabic-speaking immigrants into the United States were from present-day Lebanon, and most were Christian. Additionally, those that came in the middle of the century had also undergone some period of French colonial rule and thus were familiar with the French language. Shared religious beliefs, shared language, historical commonalities, and a record of economic prosperity among their predecessors made Lafayette an appealing place for the Lebanese. And, of course, it doesn't hurt that the immigrants and their descendents also come from a culture that treasures family heritage, generous hospitality, and festive dining as passionately as the native population of Acadiana.

Steady success in business decisively helped the Lebanese to integrate quickly in to their adoptive community. Early on, many of the new arrivals made a living locally as peddlers of various goods. Then, as they and their descendents prospered, some went on to open grocery markets and dry goods stores. For generations, two Lafayette department stores, Abdalla's and Saloom's, were landmark businesses, drawing shoppers from far-flung corners of Acadiana.

Today, the area's Middle Eastern heritage remains especially well represented in restaurants and markets. In 1981, the Loli family opened the city's first market specializing in foods and products from the Mediterranean. Today, one of the Loli brothers, Nabil, continues to operate that market, the Cedar Deli, which now serves sandwiches alongside its traditional market goods. His brother Elias has gone on to open his own restaurant, Damascus. While Abdalla's and Saloom's have closed, locals and visitors alike are still drawn to Lafayette's many Lebanese restaurants, where the distinctive flavor of Acadiana's Mediterranean Connection is faithfully maintained.